Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised & Updated

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Another thing I did decide at this point was that the sleeve needed ’something’ else so I mocked up some small pleats and pinned the sleeve into the armhole to try out the effect. And there is a lively discussion on the words “haute couture” going on over at Fashion Incubator right now complete with tongue in check alternative pronunciation as in “hot cooter”.

Who knew there was a link between doing a creative activity and a more balanced sense of well-being? I’m not sure this is correct, as a quick glance at several couture technique sewing books (like the ones above! To me couture means tailored garments that are fitted on you and have all the little details that make them fit better on the person.If the words “haute couture” or “Couture” with a capital “C” are in the name and it's being applied to factory sewing it's all hype. To me, couture is about finding the very best way to make a garment, even if it takes ten times longer or costs a bit more. It was very popular for magazine shoots because of it’s ‘film star’ quality and we were regularly squashing dresses unceremoniously into boxes or into dress bags to be couriered on the back of motor bikes to Fleet Street! I recently subscribed to an online sewing class by Susan Khalje (Craftsy) and honestly I couldn't npbelieve the messy sewing she produced, big hunky seams, pointless sewing, so long to fit something….

It is interesting this couture sewing – I am a good sewer, able to construct anything, but I can be slapdash and lazy, and I love your blog Sherry as you admit to some of my failings as well. Personally I’m a long way down the list for it but that’s absolutely fine, we must protect the most vulnerable first. If you have more cloth than will fit on the table in one go you could try having the excess rolled on a cardboard tube if you have one to keep it under control rather than sliding off the table all the time. Just because the pattern instructions tell you to finish the hem a certain way doesn’t necessarily mean you have to do it that way…although think it through carefully just in case the really is a reason!It’s has a bark-like finish and is different on each side, you could use this to your advantage if you want to create an interesting visual effect by having some pieces with one side out and some using the reverse side.

It was part of my job to get everything out of the fabric as efficiently and cost-effectively as possible so I always spent time working this out like pattern Tetris before going near it with the scissors! There are many other ways you can honour or remember a friend or loved one in this way too by sewing articles like soft toys, cushions, patchwork quilts or rugs for example using garments that once belonged to them. If you’re using a particularly fine fabric like chiffon you should stabilise the neck, and any other seams which could stretch, by hand-stitching very narrow cotton tape or ribbon over the seam line on the wrong side of the fabric. Judith’s idea for the challenge is a simple one-we use only fabric which is already ‘in the system’, especially if it’s already sitting on our shelves. As I finish writing this (2 days before Christmas) we have no idea what lies ahead…some countries seem to be slowly recovering whilst the UK as a whole seems to be sliding further and further into disaster, or maybe not?Yes, if we work with bouclé – the method helps keep it light and flexible and durable, while fusible would stiffen it. Thankfully I’d opted to make a toile of the bodice which I’d fitted just before lockdown kicked off so I managed to get the dress to a good stage of completion. For this next finish I’ve used a triple straight stitch to create the effect of top stitching on the hem, and several seams, of this Simple Sew Zoe hack I made last summer.