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In this article, you have learned the best settings for the Sidewinder X2 in Cura. Since 3D printers of the same model can differ slightly from each other, the values given here offer you a good starting point for further optimizations. The design of the cables is what really sets this system apart from others. With an integrated cable, you can be sure that everything will look perfect and there won't have to worry about pesky cords getting in your way when traveling or working around town! The SW-X2 Also has an upgraded 32-bit motherboard, a brand new titan extruder equipped with a brilliant volcano nozzle, as well as a large print volume of 300 x 300 x 400 mm! The flow rate determines how much filament is extruded per time unit. It is expressed as a percentage and is usually 100%. If you increase this value, more filament will be extruded, if you decrease it, less filament will be extruded. One of the main selling points of the Artillery Sidewinder X2 is its AC heatbed. Like every such heater, it warms up very fast. I could reach 80 C in less than two minutes! The innovation for me though is elsewhere: Artillery applied the heater directly on tempered glass. The glass is coated on top and it is also the build surface. This concept has 2 main advantages: The tempered glass print platform ensures excellent adhesion and smooth printing. Thanks to its excellent thermal conductivity, the AC heated bed can be heated to 110 ° C in just 2 minutes; the maximum heating bed temperature is 130 ° C.
The Artillery Sidewinder X2 has a very fast heat-up time of 01:30 minutes for typical temperatures of PLA (200 °C for the hot end and 60 °C for the print bed). Most other 3D printers in its price range require 2 minutes or longer for such temperatures. This fast heat-up time is due to the PTFE lined Volcano Hotend and the fast AC heating of the print bed. Time Print bed: The textured glass print bed provides very good print bed adhesion for most standard filaments. I mainly printed with PLA and only had difficulties with the print bed adhesion for very filigree first layers. However, this could be corrected with some Magigoo. The 4 screws with which you fix the frame are already pre-assembled in the 3D printer base and only need to be screwed on. To do this, it is best to place the 3D printer on the edge of a table so that one side protrudes over the edge of the table and you can comfortably turn the screws from below. When calibrating, make sure that you only adjust one retraction value at a time and observe the result. If you change the retraction distance and the speed at the same time, you do not know which change is responsible for the result. ConclusionThe goal of the flow rate calibration is that the printed lines are as wide as you have specified in the slicer. If the flow rate is set too high, the lines will be too wide; if the flow rate is set too low, they will be too thin. Both will result in unsightly and sometimes catastrophic printing errors.
You can improve the print bed adhesion by adjusting the layer height, the line width, the printing temperature, the print speed and/or the flow rate. The first optimization should always be the print speed, as this has the least negative impact on print quality. The Sidewinder X2 has a preassembled double Z-axis with two dedicated stepper motors. They are also connected to each other at the top of the frame with a synchronizing toothed belt. This guarantees synchronous movement. To find the right printing temperature for the material used, a so-called temperature tower is useful. With such an object you can print a recurring geometry with different temperatures to test the right temperature. To such a tower always belongs the appropriate script that changes the print temperature from a certain height. All in all if you are looking for a big printer this is a good choice, I would definitely buy it again since I mostly print PLA. Oh and as a last thing, the spool holder is trash, I printed one which sits on top of the provided one and its much better. ( the abs stuff and the spool holder thing is why it has 4 not 5 stars from me ) The other cool feature of the new Sidewinder is the toolhead. It is equipped with Titan type (not original E3D) direct extruder. This extruder performed very well both with flexible filament and PLA prints requiring lots of retractions. The direct toolhead of the Sidewinder X2 moves on V-wheels, like most of budget machines. Here however the V-wheels carriage is sliding on a large 6020 aluminum profile and not the usual 2020, which most other manufacturers use. This makes the assembly more solid and eliminates any wobble – I don’t see a reason to upgrade the X-axis to linear rails.
Use your TouchScreen with Klipper on Sidewinder X2
Other than that, the extruder doesn’t have other significant changes. It’s the same Titan Aero clone adaptation, which uses a 3-to-1 gear ratio and a pancake stepper motor. PTFE lined Volcano hotend TPU is a flexible filament. Therefore, a few other rules apply here than with PLA and ABS. On the one hand, it is important to use the right extruder for it, on the other hand, some settings have to be chosen correctly to avoid filament jams.
The Sidewinder X2 still uses a single 80mm 24V fan for venting the air out from the electronics chamber. This time, it’s situated in the front-middle of the printer. Dual Z axis with sync belt The only part of the Sidewinder X2 that is not perfect for PLA is its glass print bed. For PLA, other print bed surfaces like PEI would be better. But if you reduce the print speed of the first layer to 5 to 10 mm/s, the adhesion will be good enough. Otherwise, you can always use adhesives like Magigoo. While this fix helps with the issue, it doesn’t solve it completely. I decided to try and replicate the ribbon cable clip with my Sidewinder X1 Ribbon Cable Fix which works great for me. Ethereal Project 3D took it a step further, and actually designed a replacement PCB for the extruder to fix the issue. Before you can use the automatic print bed leveling, however, you must roughly adjust the print bed manually. If the print bed is very uneven, the sensor can no longer compensate for the inclination.
Setup Rust and Bevy under WSL2 in Windows 11
At the time of the last update of this article, there is no predefined default profile for the Sidewinder X2 in Cura. However, this is not a big deal, as you can use the profile for the X1 and adapt it for the X2. Now that we did the benchmark prints, we can continue with the beauty shots. I just got a new roll of Devil Design Silk Gold PLA which is one of my favorite silk filaments and printed the Technotiti bust. I’m really happy with how this one turned out. Starting a print is relatively easy with the Artillery Sidewinder X2. Since the heat-up times for the hotend and the double are as fast, it takes less than two minutes for the print to start after you give the command. Besides the mostly pre-assembled 3D printer, all the tools you need for assembly are included. There are also a few spare parts included, such as a spare cable or wheels for the axis. While I enjoy assembling 3D printer kits that consist of many small parts, I have assembled and disassembled many 3D printers, so a simple assembly that is done in minutes was a welcome change.
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