Joined in 2023 
82 
63 About this deal
All liquid based products cannot be returned if opened. These include hardeners, thinners, lacquers, primers, polishes and compounds.
Within the Scholl or Menzerna lines, even, there are a number of polishes that require aggressive stripping using bodyshop grade naphtha-based (Rather than alcohol based.) cleaners, or using quite strong APC washes... Others can be stripped with current alcohol based cleaners. Products I wouldn't be safe using on classic paints or plastics, and are cuspy on new ones. Pawlik is right... Petroleum based panel wipes can leave some residue. The ideal solution, if coating, is to use several stages. Either an APC wash followed by an alcohol wipe, or a petroleum-solvent wash, followed by an alcohol wipe. On classic paints, I limit myself to polishes which can be stripped by mild citrus-APC washes (P21S/R222 TAW), Like Meg's or the latest Scholl. However, so far, I have yet to experience LSP durability loss based upon using a panel wipe that contains a colorant or scent. I'm not sure even most nano LSP's are quite that sensitive.
Another factor which helps to suppress fisheyes is using a dust coat before applying the full coat. And giving that dust coat plenty of time (or warmth) to nearly fully harden before going in with the full coat .Won't eliminate silicones but is one more help.
Bilt Hamber Cleanser Fluid is a panel wipe that will remove all remnants of polish and waxy residue and oily or greasy road films. This product is an alternative to harsh IPA cleaners, with a non-abrasive formula that primes paintwork, leaving a perfectly clean surface. This ensures that fresh coats of wax will bond to your vehicle’s paintwork with maximum adhesion. It is easy to use. Simply apply using a microfibre cloth and remove with another clean microfibre cloth before the fluid dries. Records the default button state of the corresponding category & the status of CCPA. It works only in coordination with the primary cookie. I was just wondering whether you've made any progress on the paint issue. Painting sounds sooo simple when one reads the 'how to do it books' but the reality is different and most is learnt through experience.I'm still playing around with bodyshop products, and trying to find what is safest on the paint long-term in regards to solvent cleaners for detailing applications... Slow evaporating cleaners do seem less harsh initially, but long-term I'm not sure that in certain situations they don't still swell the paint. Some of the fast ones are more immediately obvious; the damage they can do... There are so many variables in regards to material science, and how different paints and plastics react to different solvents. Typically, to strip a lot of the products on the markets, you're riding a fairly thin margin between dissolving the carrier and damaging the paint. This makes it really hard to create a '1-size fits all system', for stripping polishes, although I'd love to do so; just so I don't have to keep so many solvent ****tails on hand, and think so much about "If I use this polish, will the paint survive it being removed?". Tests by people I trust within the industry have revealed that some popular products, can require insanely aggressive solvent/alkali cleaners to truly strip; ones really not safe for even the toughest modern paintwork or plastics. Thanks Chris , followed your analysis with interest . My gut feeling is that the Upol panel wipe is not compatible with Cellulose and simple test will sort that out . I’ll keep u posted as to the results I always laugh whenever someone says: "But the label says this polish doesn't contain fillers! Read the label!!!".... :lol: Anti-silicone drops are good stuff and minimise fisheyes pretty well. They can be used as a matter of routine. But they do alter the 'feel' of paint so a few minutes practice 'off the job' is a good idea.
Your English is better than you imagine... I understood you fully, and always find your posts insightful. Thank you for taking the time to write; it always takes time to say something thoughtful, no matter if you're speaking your first or third language. :thumb: We recommend you use a panel wipe after every step of paint correction. You will be able to feel the difference on your vehicle’s surface after you use the IPA or panel wipe. We have panel wipe available from a few brands such as Gtechniq, U-Pol, CARPRO, and Bilt Hamber so make sure to see what one is best for you! You may have heard the term ‘paint correction’ uttered by car cleaners, often followed up with jargon-filled discussions of dual-action polishers, paint protection and other seemingly alien items. The fact is, however, if you’ve ever polished a car (even by hand), then you’ve performed paint correction because any process that removes imperfections from paintwork counts. If you are getting busy with polish and want the best results, a panel wipe will help clear polished panels of any residue, ready for wax, sealant, or ceramic coating to be applied.
Great Deal 
New Comment